Complete Guide for Choosing the Perfect Diamond

There’s so much to know about diamonds, it can feel nearly impossible to tackle it on your own. Luckily, the expert consultants at Malak Jewelers are here to help! Below is the model beginner’s guide for choosing the perfect engagement ring diamond!! (And for those located in the Charlotte area, you can skip to step seven for the best way to get the perfect gem!) STEP ONE: CHOOSE THE SHAPE When looking for diamonds you first want to choose the preferred shape.The shape of a diamond is important because there are a lot of ways to cut a diamond. Some of the most popular shapes include round brilliant, princess, and cushion cut as shown above. The Round Brilliant Cut is the most demanded for diamonds, making up about 75% % of all diamonds sold and approximately 60% of engagement rings. With these numbers, it is no surprise round cut diamonds are as popular as they are for wedding rings. The round cut diamond gained its popularity about a century ago with the help of Marcel Tolkowsky. This mathematician and gemologist devised the best formula to maximize the white light reflection creating the most sparkle for the round cut diamond. Pre-technology variations of round cut diamonds include the old European cut, the old Mine cut, and the rose cut. These equally elegant cuts are more subtle and better suited for softer candlelight. If you’re looking for a uniquely vintage-inspired ring, these are ideal and typically hand cut. They’re also very budget-friendly , as brilliant cuts demand higher prices. The next most popular cuts are the princess cut, at 20%, and the cushion cut, 9% of all diamonds sold. Both the princess and cushion cut have a square focal point. While the cushion cut has rounded edges that give it a softer appearance, the princess cut’s sharp, geometric edges provide a sleek, modern appearance. The princess cut is relatively new, originating in the early 1960s, and for many years has been considered the second most popular shape of diamond. This chic cut has been referred to as “square modified brilliant” due to its high propensity for sparkle. Meanwhile, the cushion cut’s soft edges originate from the classic mine cut of the 19th century. Other distinguished shapes, from oval to radiant, make up around 15% of all sold diamonds. The emerald cut, and the Asscher cut, are the most popular two shapes of the step cut diamond family. The most notable difference between the two is that the emerald cut is an elongated rectangle and the Asscher cut has a square emerald shape. The rectangular shape of an emerald cut diamond allows long bars of light to draw the eye, while simultaneously elongating the finger.The Asscher cut is described as having a “characteristic windmill pattern that spirals inwards like a hall of mirrors,” creating a lively dance of sparkle When choosing step cut diamonds, it’s important to note the slim profile of the emerald cut appears larger than other diamonds of equal weight, while the Asscher cut appears smaller because of the stone’s height. Oval, marquise, and pear cuts are more popular shapes for engagement rings. The classic oval shape has been popular for centuries, though the modern oval cut was invented in 1957. Meanwhile, the marquise cut was created in the 1700s, in the image of Madame de Pompadour’s lips. The marquise is an elliptical shape with two pointed ends. The pear shape seems to be a mix of the oval and marquise shape with one round and one pointed end. When properly executed, the aforementioned shapes can be highly brilliant with symmetry being the key to mastering shapes with no straight edges. Additionally, they tend to appear larger than other shapes of similar carat weight. But, they must be inspected closely as they are prone to ‘bowties’ which are dark shadows that lie horizontally across the surface of the stone. STEP TWO: THE RIGHT SIZE After knowing the shape you want, the next step is to decide the right size for your ring. It’s important to remember that a diamond’s size and carat weight are not the same thing. Before the age of high-tech measuring equipment, a carat was equal to the weight of one carob seed. This led to a significant margin of error in what traders thought of as a one-carat diamond. Thanks to modern technology, we now have the precise tools to properly measure the weight of a carat. accurate. Often abbreviated as ‘ct’ or ‘ctw,’ today one carat is exactly 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. Certified diamonds will have a very precise weight, rounded to two decimal places. Also note that a ring with a center stone surrounded by accent stones may have the carat weight of all the stones combined. The size of a diamond can also be measured by a width ratio which is typically expressed in millimeters. The ratio determines how proportionate the diamond is compared to its intended shape. Generally, people prefer diamonds that are wider, or have a smaller ratio. The depth of a diamond, typically expressed as a percentage, will depend on the shape it is cut into. The elongated emerald cut is relatively shallow, meaning that the diamond has a bigger spread across its top surface, giving it a larger appearance. On the other hand, the Asscher cut is deeper than most cuts, making the gem look smaller from the top view. Oval, emerald, round, and marquise shapes typically look larger; while Asscher and cushion-cut look smaller than other shapes of equivalent carat weight. It’s also important to consider how carat weight affects price. Larger diamonds are more rare thus making them more expensive. A 0.98ct diamond can look very similar to a 1.01ct diamond, but the larger diamond will cost more because it has passed the one carat threshold known as “magic sizes.” STEP THREE: CLARITY, COLOR, AND CUT After deciding the clarity, color, and cut of your diamond is the next step of your diamond choosing process. Clarity Naturally mined diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme heat and pressure within the earth. Sometimes, when diamonds complete formation they may have internal features known as inclusion and external features known as blemishes. Determining the clarity of a gemstone involves evaluating the amount, size, type, and position of these atypical features. The GIA Diamond Clarity scale has six categories used to measure diamonds that includes 11 grades of clarity as listed below: Flawless (FL) No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification but can be characterized as minor Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance The most popular range of clarity for diamond buying is VS1-VS2. These diamonds, also known as ‘eye-clean' appear flawless to the naked eye for a fraction of the price of a truly flawless diamond. Some buyers will opt for an SI1 diamond, which will not have inclusions that are noticeable to a casual observer. This is also true for SI2 diamonds under one carat. Color A chemically pure diamond is colorless. This can hugely impact the price. The GIA has a thorough color grading scale ranging from clear to yellow. For most people, there’s a different point on this chart where you really start to see the yellow tint. If you begin seeing the yellow tint betweenThe lower you go on the color scale, the more money you can save on aspects such as cut and clarity. (Fun fact: the GIA grading scale operates from D to Z to avoid confusion with early variants of color grading systems that frequently used ABC intervals.) The difference between letter grades is nearly invisible to the naked eye. Especially once the diamond is set in a ring. The metal surrounding your diamond and cut of the diamond may also impact the hue of your diamond. Yellow or rose gold rings tend to hide a yellow tint better than white gold or platinum, while a round brilliant cut will help hide color as well. Cut The cut of your diamond is another important factor because a good cut can make imperfections in color and clarity less noticeable.Additionally, a good cut can also make a diamond appear brighter, larger and help it retain its value in the long term. . It is important to note that cut grades are not uniformly defined. Many retailers may use their own system to describe a diamond’s cut. The GIA Cut Grading System focuses on several diamond factors including face-up appearance, design, and craftsmanship. Face-up appearance encompasses: Brightness - the effect of all the diamond’s internal and external reflections of light Fire - white light is dispersed into a rainbow of color when traveling through the diamond Scintillation - combo of light flashes and the cut’s pattern of facets Design encompasses: Weight ratio Gen durability Craftsmanship encompasses: The diamond’s polish - this is important because it plays an important role in the brilliance shining through The diamond’s symmetry The girdle of a diamond may be susceptible to chipping if it is extremely thin, while a thick girdle will increase the weight of the diamond, therefore increasing the price. STEP FOUR:STYLE THE RING A lot of a ring’s personality comes from the setting even without the center stone, also called the semi-mount. There are many styles to choose from, so how do you know which one is right for your bride-to-be? The most common setting you’ll see is called a prong setting, or a claw setting. This style has small metal claws that hold the diamond in place. Typically, the gem is held by four or six delicate prongs, although more can be used for decorative purposes. This style of setting puts the diamond front and center, maximizing the light that hits the stone for the most brilliance. Another great thing about prongs is that they are easy to keep clean. But, because they sit high, they could snag on clothing. With a prong setting, it’s important to get it checked regularly to make sure the prongs haven’t loosened, and the diamond is still secure. Another popular setting is a bezel setting, also called a rub-over setting. This is where the diamond is secured by a small ring of metal around its girdle. Bezel-set diamonds are unlikely to get caught on clothing and are very easy to keep clean. This style has a very sleek, modern appearance and keeps a diamond very firmly in place. The drawbacks of a bezel setting are in the appearance of the diamond. Because the diamond is completely surrounded, less light enters the diamond and the sparkle is minimized Tension settings appear to use pressure to hold a diamond in place between two pieces of metal, making it look like a beautiful feat of engineering. Underneath, the diamond is secured with prongs ; on either side of the band, small grooves are cut where the edges of the diamond will fit into place. This style is very secure and easy to clean. The minimal amount of metal touching the stone allows maximum light return. One con to a tension setting is that it is very difficult to resize this style of ring due to the precision that goes into securing the diamond. These are just a few of the most common settings though you could choose. There are a myriad of other styles and variations. Whew! Take a breather. If you’ve made it this far, you’ve learned a lot about diamonds and rings. From here, it gets a little bit easier. Once you’ve decided about how to balance the qualities of a diamond to best suit your style and needs, all that’s left is a little homework to make sure your big purchase is the right purchase. STEP FIVE: COMPARE SIMILAR DIAMONDS The best way to make sure you’re getting a good deal is to shop around. By comparing diamonds with similar qualities, you’ll be confident about the price range that your stone falls into. For example, if you’re looking at two gems of similar quality, you’ll be scratching your head to figure out why there’s a huge price difference between them. STEP SIX: VERIFY YOUR DIAMOND One of the most important parts of buying a diamond is to make sure it is certified! When looking for certification, it’s recommended to go with GIA or AGS certification. Lesser-known certifications can impact the value of your diamond because you don’t know their grading consistency. Certification offers added protection for your diamond purchase and peace of mind for you. It’s important to note that retailers cannot do certifications and that appraisals are not the same as being certified. STEP SEVEN: GET AN EXPERT OPINION The final step in diamond selection is to get an expert opinion. Here at Malak Jewelers, we know you’ve got bigger questions on your mind. Our certified gemologists will be available to make your diamond selection process as easy as possible allowing you to focus on planning your perfect proposal!